Miuccia Prada’s continues to push the boundaries of what femininity really means, and this season is no exception. Letting go of her razor sharp focus of previous seasons, she created seemingly traditional, squeaky clean 1950s suburban ensembles that on the surface appeared to resemble repressed modern housewives. These were made even more intriguing set against a cinematic black and white backdrop, where cats, shadows and birds projected mysterious and menacing cirumstances.
Prada’s models had almost a fifties look about them, their hair rained upon and bodices dropping off one shoulder suggesting an afternoon tryst or a carnal affair. Among Prada’s unusual elements were askew necklines that fell open over bare shoulders in an undone manner and skirts with deliberate asymetrical hemlines. Over-dramatized details included belted waists, oversized bags and high platforms worn with fit and flare skirts under coats with upturned fur or fabric cuff’s.
A dark tweed skirt suit cut in early 1950s proportions featured a sleevelss cropped jacket with a torn neckline worn over an off kilter, unbuttoned black wool cardigan. The high waisted skirt was pulled askance and had a deliberate mismatched hemline created by sewing a longer length panel to a shorter length skirt.
In contrast, a look closer to Dior’s new look with mink fur cuffs featured a mottled wool tweed suit with contrasting ribbed knit panels and a front zipper that opened from the bottom to reveal a sliver of skin over a belted mid-calf asymmetrical skirt.
Prada loves to tell a story with her clothes and the plotline this season revolved around forbidden romance. The overall effect was one of raw elegance with a hint of provocation and mystery.
