Alice and Olivia Fall 2014
Alice and Olivia Fall 2014
There was an 80s and early 90s feel to much of the spring 2014 collections and Balmain was no exception. Like a show from the 80s, it verged between a catwalk show and a night club. With the thumping soundtrack “Relax” from Frankie Goes to Hollywood, Olivier Rousteing took the fashion world on a tour of the amped up styles and shapes that defined the GoGo 80s and early 90s. Rousteing reinterpreted the decade with just the right amount of exaggeration to make the distinctive proportions look fresh and relevant again with looks that recalled the biker collection by Chanel in the early 90s.
In addition to the sculpted power shoulders that have become the brand’s signature, quilted bomber jackets, jumpsuits and fit and flare skirts in houndstooth mixed with gingham check blouses gave a hint of classic to the collection and offered a bevy of new options for day. Rousteing took a new approach to quilting leather and denim, often trimming it in heavy gold chains to give denim the deluxe treatment or reproducing it in a silk print. Coordinating jackets, quilted separates, colorful herringbone, a check print, heavy metallic belts, draped denim and off-the-shoulder tops and dresses all made the grade. “I wanted to explore something casual and sporty. It’s less evening and more real. It’s more me ” the designer elaborated.
Rousteing has been trying to liberate himself from the impression that Balmain is only about heavily encrusted evening wear. For day, black and white houndstooth skirts that hug the hips and butt and flip out were paired with sweatshirts, and baseball tees. The flouncy ruffled skirts were worn well above the knee, but not as micro or as tight as in seasons past. The volume of the skirts offered the perfect counter balance to form fitting tops. There were plenty of skin-grazing sexy minis with lowered waists and sheer crystal-embellished skirts which are sure to please his glitterati clientele. His denim all-in-one and a black leather motorcycle jumpsuit were covetable and had a street easy urban feel. “What is sexy today? It’s an attitude and with this collection I think I can show a girl sexy in a jumpsuit with a sweatshirt, or a bomber jacket, she can be fierce and sexy and that was my point of view today. “
Incredibly strong model casting ensured it was a stellar show. His models included Rosie Huntington Whiteley, Georgia May Jagger, Edie Campbell, Cameron Russell, Saskia de Brauw, Kasia Struss and Magdalena Frackowiak who all take to the runway with loose, flowing hair and very little makeup.
With his latest Spring 2014 collection Olivier Rousteing illustrated that he can dress the Balmain woman for any occasion, but is keen to keep the vampy luxury as the central focus. “We all know the Balmain girl is a party girl obviously but, I really wanted to know what she looks like at nine in the morning,” said Olivier Rousteing.
Inspiration for a collection can come from the most unexpected places. For Spring 2014, Olivier Theyskens drew inspiration from a rather innocuous place, his girlfriends penchant for layering. “It’s all those silly tank tops, but girls put it together. They love layering,” Theyskens said backstage. “I’m really into clothes that have the capacity to be mixed and matched, pieces that work and are sensuous and modern, with a young vibe,” stated the designer. His arrangement of layered separates and extended layers, along with coy veiling of the feminine form with athletic undertones are the primary defining elements of his collection. A New urban cool dressing for the city where simplicity co-exists with sharp, well cut elements.
For spring Theysken’s ventured into territory that is more democratic and more accessible. The clothes are infinitely more useful for dynamic living, many styled with skinny tailored shorts peeking out from under dark layers. Theyskens combined a structured dropped shoulder tee with cuffed sleeves, over a brief reinforced bustier that traced the contours of the body. Hidden underneath the cascade of layers was a pair of relaxed shorts with a cycling version of the same, peering out from beneath the soft folds.
The silhouettes maintained an elegant simplicity through monochromatic shades of white, black, and various nuetrals creating the illusion of infinite continuity through the layering of unexpected proportions and textures. One such ensemble, a black napa leather tee with rounded shoulders and tailored shorts, was hardly obscured by wispy, sheer, trousers that separated above the knee into fluttering diaphanous panels. A trend that you are sure to see more of come next spring.
The Belgian designer’s darkly romantic style was infused with an urban element that felt distinctly New York. Sporty looks like a cropped peach silk crepe tank, with sleek tailored mint green twill shorts, veiled the sinuous curves of a willowy model. A simple black chiffon overdress mimicked the neckline of the tank, and brought together an ensemble that quintessentially celebrates New York’s street style with an effortless sensibility.
Some of the more elegant evening looks had that diaphanous fluttery, fragile quality as well. A maxi-length silk crepe shirtdress with a plunging V-neck, revealed titillating glimpses of skin through insets of chiffon at the front, back, and swirling around the hem. A white tank and a men’s style dinner jacket with defined shoulders diffused the bedroom intimacy of this dark, romantic look.
This was a very strong collection for Olivier Theyskens. The lightness was an exploration of layering, proportion and silhouette, and the ability of those elements to create flattering illusions on the body. Theyskens’ foray into more color with tentative infusions of pink, peach, mint, lemon, and lavender still retained the austere integrity of the designer’s aesthetic.
These are cool clothes for a cool girl - clothes with an easy nonchalance, that are elegant with a new energy and freedom.
Y-3 by Yohji Yamamoto Spring and Summer 2014
By Sofia Martinez
If you long for fashion that is wickedly fun, look no further than Jeremy Scott. As soon as his Spring 2014 show began, you knew you were in for instant gratification. “Teenagers from Mars” was Jeremy Scott’s prodigious theme, referencing the “Space Age” phenomenon from 1960‘s pop culture. Music tracks such as,’ “Lollipop, Lollipop, and “Mr. Sandman,” added a joyful feel to Jeremy Scott’s home on Mars.
Jeremy Scott opened his collection with a blast from the past transporting us back to the sixties with old school television color bars and an announcement interrupting our regular programming. Once he had our attention Scott put television color bars on evrything adding them onto dresses, bustiers, ties, swimsuits, and booties. The first model referenced the 60‘s cartoon “The Jetsons,” with her teased and flipped up hairdo. She was styled in a leather cardigan jacket and briefs finished with the color bar test pattern over a leather black bustier. The look wouldn’t have been finished perfectly if Jeremy Scott hadn’t finished the look with boots featuring the same tv pattern.
Models dressed as cartoons flanked the catwalk in flipped-up hairdo’s and mod silhouettes splashed with colorfully bright neon 60’s cartoon. “The Flintstones,” was a prominent theme throughout, with ensembles featuring jungle leaves and leopard patterns. A model wearing a green jungle leaf patterned bustier detailed with a zippers on each side paired with a leopard print pencil skirt was accessorized with shoes that matched the bustier exactly. If this is what a teenage Pebble Flintstone would wear, today’s teenagers might also go gaga for the rough hewn stone age look.
Jeremy Scott collaborated with Artist Kenny Scharf to add an artful interest to his retro collection. Scharf said, “ever since I first saw his collection of Jetsonesque designs, I immediately felt that we would be a great match.” Kenny Scharf is best known for his fantastical art of imagined creatures and brightly colored imagery. Scharf worked with Scott on prints, coming up with glaring tribal-mask heads, cartoon faces, and the artist’s signature squiggle graffitti.
One playful men’s look featured many tribal mask-heads in pink, yellow, and green on a shirt and pair of shorts. The look was styled with a pink pleather tie and white and pink oxford shoes. Scharf’s squiggly patterned graffiti was seen in red over bright multi-colored horizontal stripes on a sleeveless crop top worn over a red pleather pencil skirt embellished in polka dots.
A model meant to represent a “Teenager from Mars,” wearing an orange see through crop top with the words “Earth Sucks” on it and a neon green pencil skirt comically embellished with what looked like dinosaur spikes at each side was accessorized with neon green sunglasses and black pumps. Another model wearing a white t-shirt with the words “ Mars or Bust,” over multi - colored squiggles track pants resembled the graffitti work of artist Kenny Scharf’. We were tickled to see Jeremy Scott’s collection. It clearly was out of this world