The Calvin Klein Collection for Fall 2013 was focused in every sense of the word. For starters, Francisco Costa’s inspiration, taken from Andrei Tarkovsky’s 1962 film, Ivan’s Childhood,  an emotional story of an orphan during World War II. The film features strong military garb which Costa translated perfectly into his collection by drawing inspiration from the wide military roll buckle belts to broad unyielding shoulders. The Russian military influence was also present in a more literal sense: weighty wool fabrics and thick leather variations were presented primarily in navy, black and forest green. Knee-length leather and vinyl skirts paired with platform boots and high heels with metal buckles matched the strength of the jackets they were worn with. The sturdy double-breasted jackets featured lapels that spread wide across the shoulders. Wide belts separated jackets from skirts, spanning from the bottom rib to the top of the hips, adding a touch of femininity by cinching in the waist to render a more hourglass silhouette.

Though most of the collection featured ultra sculpted looks that almost completely covered the body head to toe, there were a few that showed off a little more skin. Simple, solid black bandeaus were paired with high-waisted pants and skirts exposing the shoulders, arms and a small slivers of skin where the bandeau ends and the pants begin. Some of the dresses featured deep V-necklines that plunged low to create a sleek modern shape. Lighter shades of papyrus and snowy white made a brief appearance toward the end of the collection, adding lightness to the dense mix. Dresses and skirt-jacket combinations added softness with their lighter shades and plunging V-necklines.

Overall Costa’s creations were not only on point with fall 2013 trends, but they were also brilliantly simplistic, holding true to the Calvin Klein brand. “Calvin started with coats,” Costa explained, stating that he felt it “so relevant to bring them back.” It was modern and minimalist!