VideoIn Alexandre Plokhov’s second collection for his namesake label an absolute restriction of color gave shape to a sexed-up, sleek version of menswear sending out long-haired models in leather skirts, asymmetrically cut trousers and elongated sweaters that covered the hips, making for an aesthetic that was at once dangerous and almost feminine. Plokhov’s dark, chiaroscuro palette dominated by midnight black and varying shades of gray that had a slight hint of goth. He called his collection “a stylistic fan letter” to musicians Glenn Danzig (Danzig) and Andrew Eldritch (Sisters of Mercy), famous front men of iconic goth bands.
Plokhov’s rebellious lineup included an elongated apron-tuxedo vest over a floor-length skirt followed by slender leather trousers under a long skirt worn with an extra long sweater. The look is sexy, but in a masculine way to highlights a man’s physique. It was “uniquely visceral and complex idea of masculinity” with models wearing Cuban-heeled leather boots, and heavy eyeliner. His modern day warrior is decked-out in leather trousers and a mohair vest treated with acid to achieve a matted, oily feel, “much like dirty hair,” said Plokhov. He called his collection “a stylistic fan letter” to musicians Glenn Danzig (Danzig) and Andrew Eldritch (Sisters of Mercy), famous front men of iconic goth bands.
A loosely tailored gray suit consisted of a shrunken jacket paired with a plunging v-neck T-Shirt and a pair of relaxed trousers. Another suit in black speckled merino wool was rendered in a slim silhouette accessorized with black leather smoking gloves and worn without a shirt, highlighting a fantastic silver necklace.
Alexandre Plokhov delivered a collection full of ambiguity and dark glamour bringing back the excitement to menswear.